Tuesday, October 23, 2007

Camaraderie Vineyard's Wine Maker's Dinner


Along with my fearless and valiant Sous, Roy and I presented Camaraderie Vineyard's guests with an 8 course Wine Maker's Dinner that we were both very proud of.
Camaraderie Vineyards Wine Maker’s Dinner
October 20, 2007

our menu

Lobster-Mango Spring Roll
Apricot Vinaigrette

Popcorn Tossed with Truffle Oil

Leek Trio
Leeks Mimosa with Hazelnuts
Parmesan-Leek Bread Pudding
Vichyssoise
~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Chilled Asparagus
Timbale of Caviar, Crab, Avocado
~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Salad - Three Ways
Celeriac Remoulade
Chickpea and Carrot
Roasted Beet, Red Onion and Chives
~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Herb-Crusted Mahi Mahi
Oven-Roasted Fennel and Tomato
Balsamic Reduction
~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Braised Lamb Shanks
Caramelized Onions and Shallots
Potato Puree
~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Cheese Board
Wensley Dale Boroughs English Cheddar
Homboldt Fog Goat
Holland Smoked
Dried fruit
Walnut bread
~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Late Harvest Riesling Sorbet
Fresh Berries
Chocolates


What a fun dinner and great group of folks to cook for. Almost all the courses/dishes I have cooked before, but a couple of them I’d either heard about or been given the ideas from chef friends I trust enough to go with offering them untried.

I have no idea where I first heard about Truffle popcorn, but it’s something I’ve been wanting to play with for quite a while. We had some company coming for dinner a week or so ahead of the wine maker’s dinner so decided to ‘test’ with them. We made three batches, one with kosher salt & truffle oil, one with truffle oil & truffle infused salt, and one with truffle oil, truffle salt and lemon zest. All agree the third was the very best! Earthy flavors with just a little zestiness to it.

TRUFFLE POPCORN
a Chef’s Journey recipe

1/2 cup popcorn
vegetable oil to coat the popcorn very lightly
1 1/2 T. truffle oil
truffle infused salt, to taste
2 Tablespoons lemon zest

Measure out popcorn in a heavy pot. Add just enough vegetable oil to lightly coat the kernels.
Pop the corn and remove from heat.
Immediately add the truffle oil, truffle salt and lemon zest and toss the popcorn until all is incorporated.
Serve immediately.

The popcorn and Lobster-Mango Spring Rolls were to be ‘walk around’ starters for greeting the guests. I had intended to use butter lettuce leaves for the rolls, but decided they would not be as easy to use as a one-bite amuse-bouche as they would be with rice paper. The rolls are made up of strips of lobster, mango and cucumber rolled in rice paper and served with an Apricot Vinaigrette, which is really more of a sauce than vinaigrette, imo.

LOBSTER-MANGO SPRING ROLL WITH APRICOT VINAIGRETTE
Rick Tramonto, Amuse-Bouche

1 cooked lobster tail from a 1 1/2 - 2-lb. lobster (for 3 5-oz. lobster tails, drop in boiling salted water for 6 minutes)
1/2 cucumber -- peeled
1 ripe mango
4 to 8-inch round dried rice paper sheets (or butter lettuce leaves)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 T. Apricot Vinaigrette

Remove the lobster meat from the shell in one piece & cut the meat lengthwise into quarters.
Trim each piece so that it is about 4" long.
Pull out the digestive tract if it's present.

Remove the seeds from the cucumber with a small spoon.
Discard the seeds.
Cut 4 strips from the cucumber, each one about 1/3" thick and 4" long, so that they match the lobster strips.
Make the strips as even as possible. Save any extra cucumber for another use.

Peel skin from the mango w/peeler.
Slice the flesh to the pit, squaring it as much as you can.
Cut 4 strips from the mango to match the cucumber strips.
Make the strips as even as possible.
Save extra for another use.

Fill a large, shallow bowl with warm water and spread a lint-free dish towel on a work surface.

One at a time, drop the rice paper in the water till all are submerged.
Soak for 3 minutes or till they are completely softened and pliable.
Life the sheets out of the water and spread them out on the dish towel to drain, making sure they don't overlap.

Arrange a strip of each - lobster, cucumber, and mango across the bottom third of the wrapper. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Fold the wrapper over the filling and roll into a tight cylinder up to the halfway mark.
Fold in the two sides and continue to roll till sealed.
Place the roll on a flat plate, seam side down.
Repeat to make 3 more rolls. Allow to rest for a few minutes to seal completely.

To serve, cut the rolls on the bias into thirds. (For an 8 course dinner, I cut each roll into 5 pieces)
Spoon some vinaigrette. On a small plate and set a slice on top of the sauce, cut side down. Or, slice the spring rolls into smaller pieces and serve on small plates w/a small ramekin of vinaigrette for dipping.

Can make up to 3 hours ahead


Next course up was the Leeks 3 Ways - a wonderful dish to be presented on a rectangular dish – I served the Vichyssoise on the left in demitasse cups, the Leeks Mimosa with Hazelnuts in the center, and the Leek Bread Pudding, cut in squares and plated on point, on the right. This is a great dish, with one exception – the Leek Mimosa was not a standout and I think I will replace the third part of this dish with either a Bell Pepper & Leek Sauté or a Leek & Ginger Slaw. Will be a much better balanced plate (taste and presentation).


VICHYSSOISE
House & Garden, 9/62
Serving Size : 6

2 cups potatoes -- finely diced, raw
4 tablespoons butter
6 large leeks (opt. add 1-2 shallots with the leeks) -- cleaned & cut into 1" pcs
3 cups chicken bouillon
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 dash nutmeg
2 cups sour cream -- or heavy cream. May need just 1 1/2 cups
chopped fresh chives

Cook potatoes in salted water to cover till just tender. Melt butter in skillet & cook the leeks gently, tossing them lightly, for a few minutes.
Add the chicken bouillon and bring to a boil. Lower heat & simmer the leeks till tender.

Add the potatoes to the leeks & the broth & season to taste w/salt, pepper & nutmeg.

Put this mixture in a blender (blend in two-four lots.) & blend for 1 min. or till smooth.

Chill. When ready to serve, mix in sour cream or heavy cream. Thin with chicken stock or milk if necessary. Garnish w/chopped chives.

Parmesan-Leek Bread Pudding

3 tablespoons butter
3 leeks\raw -- white part only
1 1/2 cups milk
1/2 cup light cream or half-and-half
4 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
2 cups grated Parmesan cheese
1 loaf Italian bread -- torn into 1 inch pieces

In a sauté pan over medium heat, gently soften the leeks in butter. After the leeks are tender, remove from heat. Preheat oven to 350°F.
In a large mixing bowl, combine milk, half-and-half, eggs, seasonings, and cheese. Stir in bread and leeks.
Pour mixture into a large baking dish and bake for 35-45 minutes.

Serves 8
I’ll have to do a little searching to find where this recipe came from.

Soup course is a family and catering favorite – Chilled Asparagus Soup with Timbale of Caviar, Crab and Avocado. You couldn’t ask for a prettier presentation soup, nor a better flavored.

CHILLED ASPARAGUS SOUP with TIMBALE OF CAVIAR, CRAB & AVOCADO
Serves 8

1/4 cup butter
3 small leeks -- white & pale green parts only, 4 cups approx.
2 lbs. asparagus -- ends trimmed, coarse chop
1 1/3 quarts chicken stock -- or canned low-salt broth (43 oz.)
1 quart chopped spinach leaves -- 4 oz.
1/2 cup flaked fresh crabmeat
2 2/3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 1/3 tablespoons minced shallot
1 cup diced peeled pitted avocado
2 2/3 tablespoons good-quality black caviar (such as oestra)

Melt butter in heavy large pan over med. heat. Add leeks & sauté till soft, about 5 min. Add asparagus and stock; bring to boll. Reduce heat to medium, cover & simmer till asparagus is tender, about 8 min. Add spinach, cover & simmer till wilted, about 4 min.

Working in batches, puree soup in blender till smooth. Transfer soup to large bowl; season to taste with salt & pepper. Cool, then cover & chill till cold, at least 2 hours and up to 1 day.

Mix crabmeat, 1 T. lemon juice & shallot in small bowl. Season to taste w/salt & pepper.

Mix avocado & remaining I T. lemon juice in another small bowl; mash coarsely. Season to taste w/salt & pepper.

Place tomato can, biscuit cutter or pvc pipe cut in 2-3” length in center of one soup bowl.
Spoon in 1 T. avocado mixture; smooth top.
Spoon in 1 T. crab mixture; press lightly to compact.
Spoon in 1 T. avocado mixture. Top with 1 tsp. caviar.

Carefully lift off can. Repeat in remaining soup bowls with remaining timbale Ingredients. Ladle soup around each timbale. Serve immediately.
Over the years, I now have pvc that I use rather than any metal rings - works much better.


Salad – three ways is a winner and I’ll certainly offer this again. It’s made up of three distinctive flavored salads. The colors are great together and look wonderful plated in a triangle with the point of the triangle being the beet salad and the back two ‘legs’ of the chickpea and celeriac.

The celeriac is dressed with one of the best tasting Remoulade I’ve tasted – if you’re a purist this does not have anchovy, but why not play with it. The two times I’ve made the salad, I’ve had leftover remoulade and found the best use for it. Grill some burger patties and thick onion slices brushed with butter and seasoned with salt & pepper. Brush Kaiser rolls with butter and as the patties and onion are done, lay on grill to brown. Spread lots of remolaude on both sides of the bun and top with the patty and onion slice. Oh what a wonderful burger this is!!


CELERIAC REMOULADE
“We serve this on its own as a salad, but it's also an excellent side dish or garnish, or with a roast pork sandwich or as a light meal with a piece of cold chicken.” A note by Thomas Keller in his book, “Bouchon”.

Remoulade:
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup crème fraiche
2 T. minced cornichons
2 T. minced rained nonpareil capers -- preferably Spanish
2 1/4 tsp. Dijon
1 T. cider vinegar -- (about)
2 tsp. minced Italian parsley
2 tsp. minced tarragon
2 tsp minced chervil
2 tsp. minced chives
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
-----
1 lb. celeriac (celery root) -- (1 large)
Fresh Lemon juice (optional)

For the remoulade: stir the mayo and crème fraiche together in a small bowl.
Squeeze any excess moisture from the cornichons and capers and stir them into the mixture.
Add the mustard, vinegar, and herbs. Season to taste with salt & pepper.

Refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or up to 3 days, to allow the flavors of the remoulade to develop.

For the celeriac: Cut off and discard the tops and bottoms of the celeriac; remove the skin.
Using a mandolin or knife, cut the celeriac into 1/8-inch-thick julienne. You should have about 4 cups.

Put the celeriac in a bowl and toss with enough remoulade to coat the pieces; reserve any remaining dressing. Taste & season the salad as necessary.
Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or up to 8 hours.

Just before serving, toss the celeriac with additional dressing, if desired, and adjust the seasonings a final time, adding a squeeze of lemon juice or more vinegar if needed.

Makes 3 cups; 4 to 6 servings.

Chef Keller's notes: Make the salad two to eight hours before serving it, the flavors develop, & the acid seems to tenderize the celeriac slightly. Don't overdress it - the salt in the dressing will pull moisture from it, resulting in more liquid than you want.

Chickpea and Carrot Salad
Thomas Keller recipe

1/2 cup chickpeas, quick-soaked (cover with water, bring to a boil, boil 1 minute, cover and remove from heat. Let sit for 1 hours then continue with the recipe.)
1 med. leek, white & light green parts only
Bourquet Garni (a mixture of 8 thyme sprigs, 2 parsley stems, 2 bay leaves & 1 tsp. black peppercorns)
1/2 onion, peeled
1 small carrot, peeled
Kosher salt
2 T. olive oil
2 bay leaves
2 garlic cloves, skin left on, smashed
2 thyme sprigs
1 cup finely julienne carrots
Freshly ground black pepper
1 T. chopped Italian parsley
1 ½ tsp. fresh lemon juice

Drain the chickpeas, put in a large saucepan, and add about 6 cups water, or enough to cover them by 2 inches.

Cut the leek lengthwise in half and rinse under cold water. Add one leek half to the pan, reserving the remaining half for another use. Add the bouquet garni, onion, and whole carrot to the pan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for about 45 minutes, or until the chickpeas are tender.

Pour the chickpeas and their liquid into a large shallow container and let cool. Once they are cool, remove and discard the bouquet garni and vegetables and season with 1/2 teaspoon salt. (The chickpeas can be covered and refrigerated in their liquid for 2 to 3 days.)

When ready to assemble the salad, drain the chickpeas in a colander.

Combine the olive oil, bay leaves, garlic, & thyme in a large skillet and heat over medium heat until the oil is hot. Add the carrots and toss in the oil for about 1 minute to cook them slightly (I like them cooked longer until al dente)

Add the chickpeas and season to taste with salt and pepper. Toss the chickpeas for 1 to 2 minutes, then transfer to a bowl and let cool. (The salad can be refrigerated for up to a day.)

Just before serving, remove the bay leaves, garlic, and thyme from the chickpeas and stir in the parsley and lemon juice. Makes 2 cups


ROASTED BEET SALAD
Thomas Keller recipe

1 1/2 lbs. red beets -- (3 to 4 large)
3 T. olive oil
Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper
1 T. red wine vinegar -- (about)
2 T. fresh orange juice
1/2 red onion -- peeled*
1 T. chopped tarragon
1 T. minced chives

Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Wash the beets and trim the stems, leaving about 1/4 inch attached. Place them on a large piece of aluminum foil and toss with 2 tablespoons of the oil, 2 tablespoons water, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper.

Lift up the edges of the foil and squeeze together to form a packet. Place in a small baking pan and roast for about 1 1/2 hours, or until the beets are tender, offering no resistance when pierced with a knife.

Carefully unwrap the beets and let stand just until cool enough to handle.

Rub each beet with a paper towel to remove the skin. Cut off
and discard the stems. Cut the beets into quarters, then cut the quarters crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices and place in a bowl.

Season with a light sprinkling of salt and pepper. Add red wine vinegar, orange juice, and the remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Toss and season to taste with additional salt and pepper.

Let the beets marinate for at least 30 minutes, or up to a day, in the refrigerator. Bring to room temperature before finishing the salad.

About 30 minutes before serving, cut three or four 1/8-inch-thick slices crosswise from the onion and separate the slices* (reserve the remaining onion for another use). Toss the beets with the onion, tarragon, and chives.

Just before serving, check the seasonings and add additional salt, pepper, and/or vinegar to taste.

Makes 4 servings

*I found I prefer cutting a whole red onion into 1/8-inch-thick slices and just use the inner smaller circles of the onion - much prettier presentation.


Our fifth course, the fish course, was a wonderfully herbed crusted Mahi Mahi on a bed of Fennel and drizzled with a Balsamic reduction – the flavors were just wonderful.

HERB-CRUSTED MAHI MAHI, ROASTED FENNEL AND TOMATO with Balsamic Reduction

Fennel:
2 large fennel bulbs -- tops trimmed; cut each bulb in half lengthwise, then cut into thin strips.
2 T. extra virgin olive oil
2 Bay leaves
2 sprigs thyme
2 red Thai chilies (or small serranos) I used serranos
1 T. sugar
2 T. rice vinegar
1 T. dry sherry
2 T. butter
2 tomatoes -- seeded and julienned
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Balsamic Reduction - see recipe

Preheat the oven to 400 F.
Place fennel, olive oil, bay leaves, thyme, and chilies in a roasting pan and roast uncovered for 15 minutes.

Remove from oven and reduce oven temperature to 325 F.

Add the sugar, vinegar, and butter, toss together until butter is melted.

Cover, return to oven and continue to roast for another 15 minutes longer, or until the fennel is caramelized and tender. Add the diced tomatoes and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.


BALSAMIC REDUCTION
a Chef’s Journey recipe

1 cup balsamic vinegar
2 T. butter
Freshly ground black pepper

Reduce Balsamic vinegar in a small saucepan until reduce to ½ cup. Turn off heat and slowly add bits of butter whisking each addition thoroughly. Add the freshly ground pepper and whisk all together. Set aside.


Mahi Mahi

2 cups fresh bread crumbs
2 T. tarragon -- chopped
2 T. chives chopped
2 T. parsley -- chopped
1 T. thyme -- chopped
Salt & pepper
12 2 oz. mahi mahi fillets
1 T. unsalted butter
1 T. olive oil

In a food processor, add the bread and turn into a fine dust.
Add the herbs and pulse just to combine.

Season the fish side of the fish and dip into the herb-crumb mixture.

In a non-stick sauté pan, heat the butter and olive oil.
When the oil is hot, sear each fillet on both sides, crumb side down first, for about 2-3 minutes per side. Cook to a temperature of 140 F.

Remove filets to a warm platter and keep warm.

Then we finally reached the entrée – here was another wonderful surprise, after all this food, only one plate out of 10 came back to the kitchen with more than just a bone left on the plate! I can’t really blame them, this is probably my favorite lamb shank dish – I could eat it once a week! They were served over a simple mashed potato with sour cream, chives, thyme and parsley.

BRAISED LAMB SHANKS WITH CARAMELIZED ONIONS AND SHALLOTS


4 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound onions -- sliced
5 large shallots -- sliced (about 1 cup)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary or 2 teaspoons dried
6 3/4 lamb shanks -- ¥(6 3/4 to 1)
all purpose flour
2 1/2 cups dry red wine
2 1/2 cups canned beef broth
1 1/2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 bay leaves

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in pot over medium-high heat. Add sliced onions & shallots; sauté until brown, about 20 minutes. Mix in rosemary. Remove from heat.

Sprinkle lamb shanks with s&p; coat lamb with flour. Heat remaining 2 T. olive oil in heavy large skillet over high heat. Work in batches, add lamb shanks to skillet and cook until brown on both sides, about 10 minutes per batch. Using tongs, transfer lamb shanks to plate.

Add 1 cup dry red wine to same skillet and bring to boil, scraping up any browned bits. Pour into Dutch oven with onion mixture. Add remaining 1 1/2 cups red wine, canned beef broth, tomato paste and 2 bay leaves to dutch oven. Bring to boil, stirring until tomato paste dissolves. Add lamb shanks, turning to coat with liquid.

Bring mixture to boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until lamb is almost tender, turning lamb shanks occasionally, about 1 ½ (I find closer to 3) hours. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

Uncover Dutch oven and boil until liquid is reduced to sauce consistency, stirring and turning lamb shanks occasionally, about 45 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Spoon Potato puree onto plates. Top with lamb shanks and sauce. Sprinkle lamb shanks with additional chopped fresh rosemary and serve. Serves 6. Bon Appétit - January 1996


Cheese course came next – I was able to find a selection of three cheeses that ultimately worked our wonderfully well together.

Wendley Dale Boroughs English Cheddar (a cow’s milk cheddar)
Homboldt Fog Goat
Holland Smoked Gouda
Dried apricots
Honeycomb
Walnut bread

Nut Bread

2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup sugar
1 T. baking powder
1/2 tsp. salt
1 egg, beaten
1 cup milk
1/4 cup cooking oil
3/4 cup chopped walnuts
1/3 cup chopped dried apricots or mangoes

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Grease the bottom and 1/2 inch up sides of an 8x4x2­inch loaf pan*; set aside. In a large bowl stir together flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Make a well in center of flour mixture; set aside.
2. In a medium bowl combine the egg, milk, and oil. Add egg mixture all at once to flour mixture. Stir just until moistened (batter should be lumpy). Fold in nuts and apricots. Spoon batter into prepared pan.
3. Bake for 50 to 55 minutes or until a wooden toothpick inserted near center comes out clean. Cool in pan on a wire rack for '10 minutes. Remove from pan. Cool completely on wire rack. Wrap and store overnight before slicing.
4. Makes 1 loaf (14 slices)

*I used mini-loaf pans for mini-loaves which are about 2”X4” – sliced about 3/8” makes a great tiny piece of toast to add to the cheese plate or platter.


And the finale of the evening was a beautiful, tasty sorbet from an old chef friend from Toronto, Chef Paul Silva, a chef who raises the level of cooking for everyone lucky enough to cook with him.

Late Harvest Riesling Sorbet with Fresh Berries
Chef Paul Silva, Toronto

1 2/3 cups late harvest Riesling
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup fresh squeezed lime juice

Heat all ingredients over medium heat until sugar dissolves.
Then bring to a boil for 30 or so seconds and cool for an hour or so in the fridge.

Use your ice cream maker to finish. (Took about 30 minutes in mine), then into the freezer.

Stir every half hour three times once it goes into the freezer to keep it light.

We served with a strawberry fan, blueberries and raspberries and a selection of chocolate chunks.

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I can’t thank the four wonderful folks at Comaraderie Vineyards for allowing me to again cook for their guests. Vicki, Don, Maryann and Gene are four of the nicest, most talented wine makers I’ve met in a very long time. And are they ever foodies!!